Tag Archives: Mrs Stylebook

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012

25 Apr

I am back!  Sorry for my inconsistent  postings, I have been busy in my personal life and was also out of the country for a month so I was delay in getting this post out.  To make it up, this post is pretty long with lots of visual to look at.  Winter is almost over in this part of the hemisphere so this post might be redundant for those entering into spring/summer sewing, but in the other part of the world where summer is ending and autumn is approaching this review has come just in time.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 001

I received the winter 2013 Mrs. Stylebook from my vendor, however I did not receive the fall special edition.  I am debating if I should just order it off of Ebay, it looks more interesting than the winter edition.  The winter issues has your typical coat, jackets, long sleeve garments for the season.  The free pattern in this issue: classic modern coats, simple chic half coat, dolman sleeve short coat, A-line half coat, zip-up pullover, and a jacket; all very simple basics and easy to sew.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 004

A classical modern coat with raglan sleeve, one hook closure and a self made belt.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 007

My favorite out of the six free patterns, a simple chic half coat with concealed button closure and attached leather ties.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 010

Yikes! The fabric choice could have been more fashion and less upholstery for this dolman sleeve short coat.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 013

An A-line half coat with drop shoulder sleeve.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 016

(Left) A cardigan/jacket with two snap button closures, the same draft as the classical modern coat but cut shorter.  (Right) A zip-up  pullover with drop shoulder and an exposed front zipper.

Mannish Coat

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 019

Two men’s wear inspired jackets – the left jacket has a shoulder yoke detail done in a contrasting fabric and the right jacket has patch pockets with snap button flap closure.

Lace & Tweed Jacket

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 022

(Left) Influence from the 70s safari jacket can be seen in the use of large patch pockets on the front of this jacket.  The jacket edges is frayed and is reinforced with twill tape to control the fray.

(Center) Zip jacket with a lace overlay decorating the center front.

(Right) Lace jacket decorated with pointed lace border around the collar.

Short Cape & Coat

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 025

I love these two pieces!   Both have a structural  look to them that is basic yet distinctively unique.  (Left) This jacket’s curving style lines is reminiscent of a Frank Gehry sculpture with the front flowing into the collar and the collar jutting up to frame the face.    (Right) This poncho/coat  is modernly updated with strong use of angular design lines, in its silhouette and in its pocket shape.

Half Coat

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 028

(Left) Coat with a loosely draped collar and accented with slanted pockets.  (Middle) Oversize notch collar coat with a cocoon silhouette.  (Right) A coat with faux fur accent on the collar, the seams and the hem; mimicking the look of a shearling coat.

One-piece Lover

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 003

(Left) Short sleeve dress with tucks in place of darts.  (Right) Loose fitting dress with expose zipper detailing.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 006

(Left) Baby doll dress with lace collar.  (Right)  Princess line dress with flare skirt and 3/4 length sleeves.

Working With Stripped Fabric

This sections shows interesting way to lay pattern pieces to utilize the visual effect of stripes.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 009

(Left) A  peplum jacket with two piece sleeves and a portrait collar.  A matching fishtail skirt completes the whole ensemble.  (Right) A fitted jacket with two piece sleeves.  Originally when I saw this jacket I thought it was trim added onto the jacket to give it this effect, but it’s really from placing the pattern pieces strategically on to the striped fabric to achieve this look.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 012

(Left) A double breasted jacket with contrasting bands top-stitched horizontally across.  (Right) A collarless princess seamed jacket with trumpet sleeves.

Layering Style

The Japanese are renown for their ability to layer clothing on top of layer and experiment with contrasting print and color.  The style feature in Mrs Stylebook is not as extreme as the layering that I have seen on the street of Tokyo, but I thought this section was pretty cool in its instructional on the art of layering.  An added bonus is some of the clothes featured in this section you can draft and sew yourself.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 015Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 018

Knitting Section

Five pieces to knit : shoes, finger-less gloves, scarf with pocket, beret, and button up collar.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 021

Working with Wool Fabric

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 024

(Left)  Loose cardigan (Right) Color-blocked jumper/dress

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 027

(Left) Tunic with multiple tucks (Right) Jacket with a decorative flounce hem

Cross Stitch Project

There are three cross stitch design template used to make buttons that can be used in a variety of crafting or sewing projects.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 028

Three Craft Projects Using Old Scarf

The projects are – top, rosette, and a bag; all of the the scarfs used in these projects are of the square variety.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 029

At the end of every Mrs Stylebook there is a tutorial on basic drafting skills.  The summer 2012 issue focused on collars, neckline and darts which I never got around to covering.  This issue features the bodice sloper and the variety of garments that can be drafted from this one sloper.

Mrs Stylebook Winter 2012 030

Mrs Stylebook Spring 2012 Review Part 2

5 Jul

I have been very late on finishing my review for the Spring 2012 Mrs. Stylebook; I will finish the last part of the review when I come back from New York in mid July.  Continuing where I left off, this section displays the on trend pieces for spring.

One-Piece

(Left)A shirtwaist dress with contrasting banding on the hem of the sleeve and dress and on the shoulder seam.  The dress has a four button closure concealed on the inside of the dress.

(Right) A sleeveless V-necked dress with pleats substituting in place of darts.

Spring Coat

(Left) A coat with large patch pockets on both side and a hood, which isn’t visible in the photo, the hood has a loose fit with an extension that drapes down to the front.

(Middle) A double-breasted trench coat constructed in chambray fabric.

(Right) A red swing trench coat with lots of volume.  I love how they styled this look with the patterned silk scarf and slim black pants.  Very Parisians!

Shirt Style

(Left) It looks like a regular over size shirt in the photo but it’s an unusual drafted shirt with bat wing sleeves.  There are only three pattern pieces – the left side, the right side and the collar.  The shirt is also easy to assemble with the two sides folding into itself, than sewing it along the shoulder seam, and finally attaching the two together at the center back.  No sloper require for this garment.  Just draft from the given measurement.

(Middle)  I love this drop waist shirt with the shoulder yoke and the patch pockets.

(Right)  A tunic shirt in a border printed fabric with patch pockets.

Gather & Pleated Skirt

(Left) A knife pleated skirt with a border hem.

(Middle) A pressed in pleated skirt.

(Right) A box pleated skirt.

Basic Jacket

(Left) In the tradition of a tailored man’s jacket, a female version with notch collar, sleeve vent, and double welt flap pockets.

(Middle) A fitted jacket tailored with cuffed sleeves and single welt flap pockets.

(Right)  A jewel collar jacket constructed in three contrasting fabric, the main fabric used looks like a boucle, the other two fabric not so sure but looks like a cotton or linen woven variety.  The decorative detail on the sleeve hem and waist seams utilizes the fray edges of the contrasting fabric.

Loose Dress and Blouse

This whole section feature loose fitting dresses and blouses.

(Left) A chic A-line dress with fullness in the back brought on by the inverted box pleat in the back.

(Right) A colour blocked dress with a little box pleat at the hem.

(Left) Using some creative pattern drafting, interesting fullness is created at the bottom of this tunic.

(Middle) A tunic with lace overlay.  This tunic is so easy to draft and sew.  No sloper required.

(Right) A peasant blouse with back button closure and waist tie band.

(Left) Another easy tunic top to draft and sew.  You can use two handkerchiefs, instead of fabric off the bolt to construct this top.

(Left-middle)  A tunic with drawstring sleeves and a sheer back insert.

(Left-right) A casual button less shirt constructed with a back yoke, a flare back and a back tie.

(Right) A bib inserted cowl neck tunic.

Mrs Stylebook Spring 2012 Review Part 1

12 Apr

I know I haven’t been posting as regularly. It has been a pretty crazy last couple of months for me.  I will be reviewing the Mrs Stylebook Spring 2012  in several parts because it will take me a while to go through it. I also finally got my scanner started so no more blurry photograph with my digital camera.  I hope you guys enjoy!

There are about 96 patterns to draft – consisting an even amount of pants, skirts, tops, dresses, and jackets to make for a spring wardrobe. The paper patterns included for this issue are two jackets and two coats.

The four garments are coordinated with other draftable garments featured in the magazine and it is styled showing two looks – mature and youthful.

Starting with the scoop neckline coat with three-quarter length sleeves, is paired with a floral pencil skirt (left), a pair of black jeggings (right),

striped tunic shirt with scallop hem (left), dress with waist tucks and contrasting side panels (left middle), dress shirt and roll capri pants (right middle), floral ankle pants (right).


The gingham jacket with cuff sleeves and a decorative back tie is paired with a  peg leg cargo pants [I love! I love!] (left), loose trousers with ankle tabs (middle), midi skirt with godets (right),

knee length skirt with box pleats (left), tunic with a drapey front (middle right), skirt with a peculiar origami fold in the front (right).

The multi-tiered coat made with shirting fabric is paired with a sheath dress that has two decorative horizontal seams on the bodice (right),

shorts (left), skirt with a gathered center back (left middle), skirt with an unusual placement of pleats in an angle seam (right middle), T-shirt with an asymmetrical hemline and khaki pants with a slit pocket on the left thigh (right).

Collarless jacket with detachable ruffle collars and a back peplum skirt is paired with a sheath dress with pleat detailing on the neckline (right),

yoke skirt with pleats (middle left), loose fitting t-shirt with diagonal seaming from the neckline (middle right), skirt with elastic details on the hem (right).

There is a section where they interview  Japanese designers and  paired it with garments you can draft and make from the designer’s collection.

Starting with the “Hiromi Yoshida” (left page) label,  a dress and a jacket are given to the reader to draft and sew.  They are both very easy to draft.  The dress is a color-blocked jersey dress with two pockets concealed along the seam.  The princess seam jacket is collarless with a jewel neckline and no pockets.  But what makes this simple jacket so interesting is the expose seams with a Hong Kong/bound finish used as a decorative detail.

Next, we have a tunic blouse and a shrug from “KEI Hayama PLUS” (right page).  The blouse is a mix of two big trends of 2012, the pajama trend and the floral trend.  If the two trends had a baby, this blouse would be  its lovechild.  The shrug is straightforward in terms of sewing.  If you ever sewn or even knitted a shrug, the pattern is fundamentally the same.  To draft this shrug it doesn’t require a bodice block just your height measurement.

I love the appliqué on this very simple skirt from “machiko jinto london” (right page).  The pattern for the skirt is basically a long rectangle that has been pleated to give it a fuller look.

From “DoClasse” (left page), a linen cotton coat with contrast boarder along the neckline, center front, sleeve hems, pockets, and center back.  I Googled the brand DoClasse and they have an online shopping site, which also has this coat on it.  I compiled pictures off the website to show the different views of the coat.

Mrs Stylebook (Autumn) 2011 Review Part 3

31 Dec

Hope everybody had a good holiday.

Finally the end of my review!  I chose a couple of pattern drafts that I liked throughout this issue.  There were a lot of shapeless dresses in this issue so I didn’t cover any of those dresses.

(Left) Another blanket coat, but has a more relax feel than the one I previously posted, with the longer length, the shawl collar and the looser fit.  (Right) Asymmetrical buttoned up coat with a funnel neck. I love the idea of wearing a bright red coat to take away the winter blues away.

(Left) I am past the age of wearing velour jackets, but I adore the color blocking on this jacket.  The pattern uses three different colors.  I am not fond of the color choices used for the finished project.  But if I were to make this jacket, I would do it in black, grey, and white or if I were feeling colourful, I would use the Gucci 2011 palette of aquamarine, teal and violet.   (Right) Duffle coats always evoke memories of Paddington the Bear.  A classic piece that keeps you all warm and cozy especially with the wet snow and wind chills we have been getting in Toronto these last couple of days.

I always like to review the non-drafting projects featured near the end of the magazine.  I find them fun to view even though they are unwearable for me.  Remember the recycling projects in the 2011 early summer issue.  They are back again!

Made from old scarfs, the one on the left is a shorter top with a v-neck and the one on the right is a tunic with a funnel collar.  They both employ the fringes from the scarf as a design detail, wasting as little as possible.

(Left) Apron to a pinafore.  (Right)  A long dress into a tunic.

I thought this was a great section on how to employ design details with strip fabric.  Through fabric layout and/or pocket placements, you can create different design elements.  All four shirts use the same pattern and through the above techniques, they become four different shirts.

A section on how to make a tote bag using upholstery fabric.

For those who like to knit, knitting instructions on how to knit three pairs of socks and a snood scarf.

Mrs. Stylebook (Autumn) Review Part 1

23 Nov

This issue is filled with jackets galore!  If you love drafting jackets and coats this issue is for you.

There are about 92 patterns to draft.  Included are four ready-made patterns: open cardigan (left), open coat (right),

knit top (left), and a loose fitting dress (right) .  Not crazy about any of these garments.  The only thing I would consider making is the knit top.

Jackets and Coats Galore!

I always find that the more fashionable patterns are featured in the front of the magazine and the further you get into the magazine, the dowdier or quirkier the style gets.  A huge portion of my review consists of patterns from the front with a smattering of selections from the middle and the end.

Nuance Form

(Left) Belted poncho/cape with zipper closure.

(Middle) Shawl collar coat with big patch pockets on either side.

(Right) Collarless princess seam coat with a sixties flare.  Love the bold color and the big buttons on this coat.

Impact Color, Check & Border

(Left) Updated version of the blanket coat reminiscent of the HBC blanket coat.  I love the unusual detailing of the ruched collar and the zipper decorated patch pockets.

(Middle) Shirt tunic with tiny center front pleats.

(Right) A variation of  the tailor jacket with a ribbed sweater knit top collar.

Creamy Color

(Left) Shawl collar jacket with frayed detailing.

(Middle) Coat with big patch pockets and a huge shawl collar that I thought was a hood.  I had to use google translate to translate this kanji 衿 symbol on the draft to make sure it was a huge shawl collar and not a hood.

(Right) Coat with a hood.  The hood has an exposed zipper in the center front that isn’t shown in the picture but is in the draft.  The zipper looks more decorative than functional.  I love the welt pockets disguised as  patch pockets.

Feminine Print

(Left) The busy textile pattern takes away from all the pleating details on this garment.  The tunic top/dress has a center front box pleat and opposing knife pleats that carries through to the back.  The raglan sleeve is pleated in the same manner but has an inverted box pleat on the cap line.  Collar is also pleated to match.

(Middle) Uggh….this textile pattern reminds me of my grandmother’s table cloth.  The silhouette is reminiscent of the 60s, but that doesn’t mean they have to raid somebody’s old tablecloth to remind us what decade they took their inspiration from.

(Right) Another tunic/dress with dolman sleeves and a boat neckline.  In my opinion, this textile pattern is the most wearable one out of the three.

Soft Military

(Left) Double-breasted trench coat with 3/4 length raglan sleeves.  I hate the length of the sleeves on this coat.  It is not flattering on anybody’s figure; in fact it shortens your proportion making you look shorter.  The only time 3/4 sleeves works on a coat, is if the coat is cropped at the waist or higher.

(Right) Double-breasted peplum jacket with two piece sleeves and rounded notch collar.

Mrs. Stylebook (Summer 2011) Review

19 Aug

This issue is a disappointment compared to the last two that I reviewed.  The majority of the clothes featured are very loose and boxy and there is a lack of garments with innovating pattern drafting techniques.

There are about 100 patterns to draft.  Like the last issue, there are a lot of tunics, dresses and tops.  Included in this issue are twenty ready-made patterns of tops and dresses that are variations of six drafts with elements added on or taken away.

The A Group

Two dartless button-up blouse: (Left) Shorten at the waist and sleeves.  Cuff added onto the sleeves.

(Right) Hip length blouse with three-quarter length sleeves.

Using the same dartless blouse draft: (Bottom left) Button-up dress with ruffle collar and sleeves.  The front placket is decorated with trim.  There is an option of adding decorative trims along the front of the dress which isn’t shown in the photo.

(Top left) One buttoned blouse with ruching above the bust.

(Right) Pullover tunic with ruching below the bust, drawstring collar and double layer sleeves.

The B Group

Using a tent dress draft with neckline pleats: (Left) Pullover blouse with three button enclosure on the front.

(Right) Dress with mandarin collar and pin tuck pleats decorating the hemline.  There is the option of adding a tie around the waist that isn’t shown in the photo because it is belted.

The C Group

Using the shift dress draft with a series of single darts at the waist: (Left) Fitted blouse with zipper closure at the center back.

(Middle and Right) The two dresses are exactly the same in draft, just the sewing is varied.  The dress on the right has the waist darts sewn as tucks, while the middle dress has the waist darts sewn as darts.

The D Group

Using the princess line draft: (Left) Crop jacket with zipper closure.

(Middle) Sleeveless hip-length vest with ruching on the shoulder and hook and eye closures on the front.

(Right) Button up drop waist dress with three layers of ruffles.

Two collarless jacket using the princess line draft: (Left) Jacket with full length sleeves.  Self made ruche trims decorates the collar, the front and the sleeves of the jacket.

(Right) Jacket with three quarter length cuffed sleeves and false pockets.  Decorative frayed edges are used along the sleeve cuffs, pockets and front placket.

The E Group

The base draft for this group is a variation of a blouson draft with the right side dart removed and replaced with pleats on the right side of the neckline.  (Left) Short sleeve dress with gathers on the mid back and neck.

(Middle) Drawstring blouse decorated with lace trim on the collar and sleeves.

(Right) Lace tunic with gathered sleeves embellished with a bow.

The F Group

Both the blouse and the dress is exactly the same using the kimono draft as its base with the only change being the length.

My Picks

(Left) When I first saw this vest, it looked like a generic vest.  On closer inspection of the draft, it was far from generic.  The vest is a patchwork of different shades of black, color blocked in such a way that it gives it a geometric look reminiscent of a Mondrian painting.  It’s a shame they didn’t photograph the vest better because it looks so interesting on the draft.  Another thing I love about this vest is one size fit all and no sloper to draft from since it a bunch of rectangles sewn together.

(Right Top) Three tier blouse with expose front zipper.  There is an interesting detail by the zipper where two pieces of fabric is gathered and pleated to form what looks like two bows.

Exploring Fabric Types

There is a section on using different types of fabric with accompanying designs to go with it.

(Left) Jacket with zipper closure made from embroidery lace.  The neckline, waistline and center front are bound with satin bias tape.

(Right) Sheath dress with color blocking using art pique fabric and black woven fabric.

(Left) Jacket made from leno cloth with ruffles decorating the collar, front and hem.  I am not liking the polka dot ruffles.  It’s a bit too much with the stripes of the jacket.  (Right) Jacket and skirt sewn in seersucker fabric.  Fray trim decorate the neckline and front.

Matching Mother and Daughter Outfits

There is a two page spread on matching outfits for mother and daughter.  No sloper required for the kid’s clothes, just follow the measurements that are given and just draft.  From experience I can say drafting and sewing kid’s clothing is as simple as you get.

Experiment with Rectangle Pattern Drafting

When I first saw these four outfits I was like …ugg.  I know Mrs Stylebook likes to experiment with pattern drafting but these garments are not flattering at all.  I noticed the foundation of all four designs are based on the rectangle so I googled rectangle pattern drafting and discovered it was a drafting technique used before the late Renaissance in the construction of clothing.  As quoted from  http://www.renaissancetailor.com, “Rectangular Construction basically takes advantage of the ‘rectangular’ nature of fabric.  Most, if not all, pattern pieces are rectangular in shape, there is minimal fitting, and very few scraps left.”

This is Mrs Stylebook modern interpretation of this technique.  Even though I would never make any of these garments, I appreciate their attempt to pay tribute to this ancient method of clothing construction.

Another Baby Lock Wave Project!

Another Baby Lock Wave project that involves decorating a shirt with the wave stitch and alternating it with ruffles.  The shirt draft is included along with the instruction on how to apply the wave stitch.  I don’t like this look as much as the one featured in the last Mrs. Stylebook, but it shows another way of using the wave stitch as a design detail.

Mrs. Stylebook (Early Summer 2011) Review

14 Jul

There are about 98 patterns to draft.  Most of them comprise of tunics, tops and dresses.  The paper pattern for this issue is a blazer jacket styled four different ways with drafting instructions included.

Starting from the left is a ‘mannish’ styled  jacket sewn in a pinstripe fabric with zipper closure for the pockets and sleeves and also as a decorative trim around the collar.  Next is a ‘sporty’ styled jacket sewn up in a light blue cotton blend twill fabric with white piping.  Next is an ‘elegant’ styled jacket sewn up in a beige slub fabric with gold braiding for trims.  Lastly is a  ‘sweet’ styled jacket sewn up in a floral print devoid of any trims.  Below are some styling ideas for different ages on how to wear the jackets.

TUNICS

 I love the fabric on these two tunic designs.  The first one on the left is made in a sheer fabric like chiffon.  It is easy to draft and it also includes the drafting instruction for the camisole underneath the tunic.  The second tunic I am not quite sure what type of fabric it was constructed in.  I am guessing maybe a knit fabric because the pattern has no zipper or buttons.  I love the draping on the front of this tunic.  The picture doesn’t show it but the draping wraps around to the back in a similar fashion.

LACY SKIRT

(Left) Lined yoke skirt with gathering below the yoke.  It is pretty simplistic in terms of sewing and drafting.  The jacket is also included in the draft.  Love the feminine take on the jean jacket.

(Middle) A-line skirt with two box pleats in the front with lace insert beneath the pleat.  No pleats in the back.

(Right) Ten tiers lined skirt with ruching and lace alternating on each tier.  Take a little more time to sew compare to the other two skirts but fairly easy to draft and sew.

SLEEVELESS

(Left) Love the architectural draping on this jumper.

(Middle) Sleeveless top with piping on the princess line.  Neckline decorated with a long piece of twisted ribbon snaked along the front.

(Right) Long sleeveless peplum vest with wide lapels.  I am not a fan of this piece.  It reminds me of  an outfit a character from ‘Beverly Hills 90210′ (the TV show from the nineties) would wear.

ONE-PIECE

(Left) Beautiful dress with small pleats in the center front bodice with short flutter sleeves done in two layers.  I love the eyelet fabric used for the skirt of the dress.

(Middle) Classic shirt dress with two front pockets.

(Right) Boat neck tunic with a long back.  Very similar to the blouse posted from Mrs. Stylebook Spring 2011 with the full back.

JAPANESE STYLING

In every issues of Mrs. Stylebook they always have styling tips on how to wear the clothes that are featured in this magazine.  I have to admit that I feel some of the styling is a bit off for my taste.  I like some of the clothes that are featured.  I just wouldn’t wear it the way they have styled it.  Here are my picks:

I like the simplicity of the black shrug jacket featured in the left page.  The cascading ripples of the garment give it a structural look.  The draft is very easy.  It is just a large circle with sleeve holes put in.

On the right is a classic two piece suit.  The styling here is very good, it’s elegant and sophisticated.

On the left, the black carpi pant with fold over cuff, buttoned up with three buttons.  The fit on the model wearing the capri is perfect.  Not too tight or loose.  Ugg…  Not liking the poncho she is wearing with the capri.  It bothers me that they didn’t line up the stripes when cutting the poncho pattern.  If you like the poncho, the drafting instructions are included.

Great styling for the first outfit on the right page with the cargo jacket and short.  Drafting instructions are given for both garments.

DENIM

This issue they have a feature on sewing with denim, showcasing four different designs with the sewing instructions included.  Included are discussions on different types of denim, what type of needles, threads, and notions to use and denim bleaching.

(Left) Denim jumper done in stretch denim.  Love the racer back detailing on the back.

(Right) Big shirt done in light weight denim.  A velvet ribbon tie is attached around the neckline.  Flared sleeves gathered at the cuff.

(Left) Love this deconstructed jacket with the crazy sleeves.  It reminds me of a Martin Margiela piece.  This jacket is easy to draft.  But figuring how to sew it is a puzzle in itself for a non Japanese reader like me.

(Right) Jacket with raglan sleeves and a back yoke.  The jacket has some interesting seaming and pocket placement on the front.

FEMININE BLOUSE

(Left) Stretch lace sleeveless top with one side ruched.  Underneath is a nude tank top done in a jersey fabric.  Easy to draft and sew both pieces.

(Right) Raglan sleeve blouse with front pleats radiating from the neckline.  The sleeves are tiered with five rows of scalloped lace.

Two origami styled blouses.  I love the complexity of the two designs shown in an understated manner.

(Left) Boat neck blouse with structured origami sleeves.  The draft is fairly easy and so are the instructions on how to fold the sleeves.  I wish they made the blouse a little bit more fitting.

(Right) Wrap blouse with an asymmetrical neckline tied to the side.  Drafting it doesn’t seem to difficult but constructing it may be bit of a challenge for a non-Japanese reader.

BEST 50 OF JAPANESE DESIGNERS

There are 50 designs showcasing Japanese designers/brands. All the garments featured are casual ready-to-wear.  A lot of the garments featured are loose fitting.  Personally I like more tailored garments so I will only be reviewing a select few that I find interesting.

Love the two bottoms featured here.  The pant on the left is a cargo capri with draw string bottoms and welt pockets on the back.

The Bermuda short on the right has interesting patch pockets on the side with crisscross detailing.

The dress on the right has crazy amount of pleating.  There are pleats all around the neckline and skirt.  The skirt has an interesting scalloping detail along the hip line where box pleats are sewn underneath the scalloping. The dress buttons up on the front and has raglan sleeves.

I like the interesting draping on the raglan shirt on the right. The pattern draft is fairly simple to follow.  The front is cut on the straight grain and the side is cut on a bias which gives it the draped look.

7 PIECES HANDMADE

I found this section pretty interesting because it featured a 52 year old reader of Mrs Stylebook who has been sewing from the magazine for years.  In this article she chooses 7 pieces that she has sewn and has been a staple in her wardrobe.  The reader models her own garments for the photos but I am not sure if she styled the look herself.  Since all the garments featured were from previous issues of Mrs Stylebook, the magazine has included the drafting instruction for all seven garments.

REUSING EXISTING GARMENTS

There are seven examples given in this section on taking existing garments to make into new garments.  Lots of picture diagrams that are easy to follow for non-Japanese reader.  Here are two recycling alteration projects:

I WANT A BABY LOCK WAVE MACHINE

For those that have the baby lock wave machine this project is for you, a blouse using the decorative wave stitch on the front of the blouse.  There are instructions on how to do the embellishment on the fabric and how to draft this lovely top.  Sigh… I want a wave machine just to do this project.

Mrs. Stylebook (Spring 2011) Review

22 Jun

I finally collected my three Mrs. Style Books from a Japanese vendor that orders them for me.  I have the spring, early summer and summer issues.  Today’s post will be on the spring 2011 issue.

There are about 90 drafting patterns in this issue.  The paper pattern included for this issue are for four dresses with the sewing instructions included.

The first two dresses have an unusual design detail using tucks in place of darts.  I love how the first dress creates the illusion of an hour glass figure with the tucks v-ing into the center front of the bodice and the skirt tucks flaring out.  The third dress is a shirt dress with a yoke back, drawstring waist, rolled up tab sleeve and a peter pan collar.  The fourth dress is a romantic puff sleeve dress with interesting pleating in the back.  For those who like to draft their own patterns, the instructions for the drafts are included.

SPRING COATS

 

Two trench coats: the red one is double breasted with pointed collar, the pink one is single breasted with rounded collar.

The light pink coat is a dress coat with 3/4 puff sleeves.  No collar and no closures.  Extremely easy to draft and sew.  I recommend this coat for novice drafter.

SUITS/COORDINATES

Interesting detailing on the neckline of the Chanel like suit on the left, a silk scarf is weaved into the neckline.  The scarf could be worn loose or tied up.  Middle outfit you have a jewel neckline jacket with bermuda shorts.  Last outfit on the right reminds me of a vintage Valentino jacket with the bows and rosettes on the front.

DRESSES

On the left there are two classic style dresses, one in a classic sheath and the other one in a variation of the sheath with a lower neckline.  I love the drafting technique on the dress on the right.  The front of the dress is in one piece.  The right side of the dress folds over to the left, pleating the fabric underneath.  The dress is fasten by two snaps.  Love the masculine avant-garde look of this dress.

LACE

Three jackets sewn in lace.  I like the one on the left.  That jacket would go well with  one of the sheath dresses featured above.  The middle jacket is too boudoir for me and the one on the right is a bit frou frou for me with the puff sleeves and satin paneling.

JACKETS

On the left is a cute military jacket.  The pant the model is wearing is also included in the draft.  Can’t decide which stripes to sew in?   Two double breasted jackets one with a collar and one without, sewn in nautical and swinging sixties striped fabric.

KNITS

Two drafts for sheer knits, one is for a loose cardigan made up in a leopard heart print fabric and the second is for a peasant blouse made up in a lavender fabric.

SEWING WITH KASURI FABRIC

There is a section on using kasuri fabric in garments.  I am not familiar with this type of fabric so I googled the word kasuri to find out.  This is Wikipedia’s definition:

Kasuri ()is a Japanese word for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric. It is an ikat technique. Kasuri is weft ikat; the warp threads can be a solid color or resist dyed as well, and the weft thread is resist-tied in a specific pattern and dyed with indigo to form a picture when the cloth is woven. When the woven pattern creates an image it is referred to as picture kasuri or E-gasuri.  Japanese ikats are generally weft ikats or double ikats.

I only posted two of the kasuri designs here.  These two are the most interesting in terms of fabric and design.  I especially like the kasuri fabric on the right with its triangular pattern of stagger lines.

OTHER NOTABLE DESIGNS

There are a lot of designs in this magazine so here are a few that I found to be interesting from a pattern drafting stand point maybe not on the wear ability factor for some people.

(Left) Shirt when buttoned all of the way up turns into a funnel collar.  Have it left unbuttoned looks like a regular shirt collar.

(Right) A little bit too baggy for my taste, but like the pleated ruffle along the neckline and found the curved waistline interesting but not flattering.

(Left) Asymmetrical zip jacket reminiscent of a motorcycle jacket and a trench mashed together.

(Right)  Oddly enough I like this blouse even though I probably won’t be able to pull off this look.  The fullness in the back of the blouse reminds me of a sack-back gown or robe a la francaise from the 18th century.

Not liking the ruffle placement on this skirt.  I would remove all the ruffles or have the ruffles circling the bottom of the skirt.

(Left) Sailor front skirt with lace trims.

(Right) Open blouse with tie.

CROCHET PATTERN

Included in this issue is a lovely crochet pattern for a bag.

PANTS! PANTS! PANTS!

There is a whole section on drafting pants starting with the pant block.  From the block it shows you how to alter the legs to get bell bottom, skinny, slim, straight, flare, wide, culottes, and easy pants. Below are two version of the skinny pant: the first one is taken in in the thigh and ankle, the second one is taken in the thigh, calf and ankle.
Aside from drafting different pants, it shows how to draft various pant pockets and waistbands with their placement.

At the end of the lesson it shows how you can apply your pant knowledge into creating other pant styles.  Here is a cute jumpsuit with a cowl neck and suspender back.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 103 other followers