Disappointing Summer 2012 Vogue Release

The title explains how I feel about the new vogue summer pattern release – not a lot of new interesting designs.  In fact, some of the new patterns feel like variation of old ones.  Like the Rebecca Taylor V1299 which has a bodice flounce similar to the Badgley Mischka v1288 or the DKNY v1300 which has the same silhouette to Anna Sui v1217.  And don’t even get me started on the Kay Unger patterns, which are starting to look alike.  I don’t understand why the same silhouette is chosen all the time for the Kay Unger pattern release when the label also makes separates,  A line dresses, floor length dresses and dresses with sleeves.    Despite my disappointment, there were some good patterns in the mix and a new designer added on to the list.

My Picks

V1301

I have never been crazy about the collage of fabrics in Koos Couture garments.  But I do have an appreciation for the design and construction techniques he uses to bring his art to life.  Koos’ newest pattern doesn’t disappoint.  In fact, it’s more commercial than his usual patterns.  It’s a 70s boho chic dress that can be worn multiple ways by arranging the ties differently.  It’s a versatile dress. Personally, I would construct this garment in one fabric instead of the collage of fabric shown on the model.

V1309

I always have a soft spot for Issey Miyake and Chado Ralph Rucci patterns because of the technical complexity in their work.  The tunic top from Issey Miyake is quite unusual with the front and the back cut as one piece. The top should be easy to sew up since there are no seams except for the zipper placement.

V1310

The Chado Ralph Rucci pattern is also a simple design with a pullover top and a bias skirt that ties in the front.

V8812

I really love this vintage pattern because is classic enough that it doesn’t look dated.  This dress is perfect as a bridesmaid dress or even a dress to wear at a wedding or a summer BBQ.

V8810

The classic shirtdress with different detail options is a great addition to any sewer’s wardrobe.  The sleeve and skirt option makes this pattern flattering for all shape and sizes.

V8821

One of the new trends for this summer is the long back shirt or dress.  I am not a fan of the V8809 dress but I am a fan of the V8821 top and pants.  I love the fullness in the back of the V8821 top.  It’s a dramatic take on the long back trend that I haven’t seen before.

V8804

This Claire Schaffer pattern reminds me of an article she did for Thread magazine a couple years back on the construction techniques of a Channel jacket.  I haven’t bought the pattern but I assume the construction instruction will be similar to the Thread article with an accompanied  pattern to work with.

V1297

I am a sucker for stripe fabrics and garments.  I love the bias placement of the stripe on the side panels, matching it perfectly to the vertical stripes on the front.  I can’t get over how perfectly they matched  those stripes.  Ahhh…stripe heaven.

New Designer

V1304

Vogue added a new designer on their pattern roster, Lialia by Julia Alarcon .  I would describe her design as architectural in a young modern way.  I love the seaming and draping she does on some of her designs however, a few of her designs are body conscious.

V1304 is from Julia Alarcon’s spring 2011 and fall 2010 collection.  For her spring 2011 collection, she constructed the dress in two colors and for her fall 2010 collection she did it in solid colors.  Very cute dress but I would make a muslin before making it with your final fabric because there might be fit issue with the bust and/or shoulder depending on your cup size and your frame.

V1305

V1305 is from Julia’s spring 2011 collection.  I really wanted to like this dress but it’s not flattering at all, not even on this model.  The length and the side ruching emphasize every lump and bump plus it shortens you unless you are 6 feet tall with a very thin build.  I actually would like this dress better if it was shorten to above the knee, which the designer actually did (check photos below) and it looks soo much better.  If you buy this pattern, take my advice and shorten it.

Tags: Vogue Pattern

Cynthia Rowley Dress Pattern

I couldn’t help but write a post about a dress I saw today in the May issue of  Lucky magazine.  The dress is a Cynthia Rowley dress seen below circled in red.
To my surprise, this dress is one of the new release patterns from Simplicity.  Generally, the Cynthia Rowley patterns are from past collections not from the current collection. Its nice to have a designer pattern released close to the collection its representing.

I love this pattern and its on my list of must buy patterns.

Tags: Cynthia Rowley, Simplicity Pattern

Mrs Stylebook Spring 2012 Review Part 1

I know I haven’t been posting as regularly. It has been a pretty crazy last couple of months for me.  I will be reviewing the Mrs Stylebook Spring 2012  in several parts because it will take me a while to go through it. I also finally got my scanner started so no more blurry photograph with my digital camera.  I hope you guys enjoy!

There are about 96 patterns to draft – consisting an even amount of pants, skirts, tops, dresses, and jackets to make for a spring wardrobe. The paper patterns included for this issue are two jackets and two coats.

The four garments are coordinated with other draftable garments featured in the magazine and it is styled showing two looks – mature and youthful.

Starting with the scoop neckline coat with three-quarter length sleeves, is paired with a floral pencil skirt (left), a pair of black jeggings (right),

striped tunic shirt with scallop hem (left), dress with waist tucks and contrasting side panels (left middle), dress shirt and roll capri pants (right middle), floral ankle pants (right).

The gingham jacket with cuff sleeves and a decorative back tie is paired with a  peg leg cargo pants [I love! I love!] (left), loose trousers with ankle tabs (middle), midi skirt with godets (right),

knee length skirt with box pleats (left), tunic with a drapey front (middle right), skirt with a peculiar origami fold in the front (right).

The multi-tiered coat made with shirting fabric is paired with a sheath dress that has two decorative horizontal seams on the bodice (right),

shorts (left), skirt with a gathered center back (left middle), skirt with an unusual placement of pleats in an angle seam (right middle), T-shirt with an asymmetrical hemline and khaki pants with a slit pocket on the left thigh (right).

Collarless jacket with detachable ruffle collars and a back peplum skirt is paired with a sheath dress with pleat detailing on the neckline (right),

yoke skirt with pleats (middle left), loose fitting t-shirt with diagonal seaming from the neckline (middle right), skirt with elastic details on the hem (right).

There is a section where they interview  Japanese designers and  paired it with garments you can draft and make from the designer’s collection.

Starting with the “Hiromi Yoshida” (left page) label,  a dress and a jacket are given to the reader to draft and sew.  They are both very easy to draft.  The dress is a color-blocked jersey dress with two pockets concealed along the seam.  The princess seam jacket is collarless with a jewel neckline and no pockets.  But what makes this simple jacket so interesting is the expose seams with a Hong Kong/bound finish used as a decorative detail.

Next, we have a tunic blouse and a shrug from “KEI Hayama PLUS” (right page).  The blouse is a mix of two big trends of 2012, the pajama trend and the floral trend.  If the two trends had a baby, this blouse would be  its lovechild.  The shrug is straightforward in terms of sewing.  If you ever sewn or even knitted a shrug, the pattern is fundamentally the same.  To draft this shrug it doesn’t require a bodice block just your height measurement.

I love the appliqué on this very simple skirt from “machiko jinto london” (right page).  The pattern for the skirt is basically a long rectangle that has been pleated to give it a fuller look.

From “DoClasse” (left page), a linen cotton coat with contrast boarder along the neckline, center front, sleeve hems, pockets, and center back.  I Googled the brand DoClasse and they have an online shopping site, which also has this coat on it.  I compiled pictures off the website to show the different views of the coat.

Tags: Mrs Stylebook

Spring 2012 Fashion Trends

The weather in Toronto is warming up and I am looking forward to spring weather and clothes.   What better way to celebrate spring than to compile all of my subscribed magazine spring trend forecasting and pair it up with a sewing pattern.

RETRO

From full skirt to pencil skirt, silhouettes from the 50s and 60s is still in vogue. If you feel more risqué, try a bralette top seen at Dolce and Gabbana and Nina Ricci.  
Recommended pattern – Bustier Top 127 and Skirt 126 from Burda May 2011

Athletic

With the Summer Olympic just around the corner, get into the athletic spirit by donning garments with sporty detailing, such as jumbo zippers, neon trims and mesh fabrication. Try pants with color blocked stripe on the sides, seen at Gucci, Rag and Bone, and Antonio Berardi.

Recommended pattern – Pants 108 from Manequim January 2012

Tribal

From African prints to Haitian prints, ethnic tribal prints are seen a plenty on this spring runway. There are no rules for the silhouettes that house these prints. Just keep the sewing pattern simple to allow the prints to stand out. My favourite collections highlighting this trend are Donna Karen and Michael Kors.

Recommended pattern – Jumpsuit 129 from Manequim January 2012

Deco

From flapper dresses to bias dresses to sequins and fringes, we have been captivated by 20s aesthetics which can be partly attributed to the success of Downtown Abbey and Boardwalk Empire.  Don’t feel like tackling a drop-waist dress, than just try a sequin tank with art deco motif. My favourite collections highlighting this trend are Gucci and Etro.

Recommended pattern – Dress 126 from Burda April 2011

Pastel

An alternative to the bold colors this spring, pastel is making a comeback in a variety of shades – mint and blush being the most popular. There are no rules on the type of garments that can be in pastel.  Try a sweet and romantic dress in this shade, if wearing pastel pants is out of your comfort zone.

Recommended pattern – Cynthia Rowley Dress 1873 from Simplicity Pattern

Tags: Burda, Manequim, Simplicity Pattern, Spring 2012

“Drape Drape” in English!

The third book in the pattern magic series “Pattern Magic Stretch Fabrics” by Tomoko Nakamichi will be available in English on March 21.  The pattern magic books are an avant-garde take on the world of pattern drafting.  I first discovered the pattern magic books when I was in Tokyo in 2001.  At that time, they just released the first book in the series and I bought it even though I didn’t read an ounce of Japanese.  It would take another nine years for an English publisher to buy the rights to translate the first book.

The same publisher who translated the Pattern Magic books is now releasing a translated version of the first book in the “Drape Drape” series.

I am kicking myself for having asked for “Drape Drape 2″ and “Drape Drape 3″ for my Christmas present last year.  (I already own “Drape Drape 1″ since 2008.)  I could have waited just a little bit longer and got the translated version.

Aargghh!

At this rate, they will probably translate the Japanese Madeline Vionnet book (which I also have), a supplement to the Betty Kirke book.

“Drape Drape” is very different from the “Pattern Magic” books.  It isn’t a drafting book, but rather a book with ready-made patterns to sew, accompanied with illustrated instructions on the sewing process.  The patterns come in four sizes: S, M, ML, and L. (This is from my Japanese version.  I am guessing they might change it to XS, S, M, and L for the English edition.  The sizes run pretty small.  I fit into the large.  The large has a bust measurement of 90cm.)  I want to comment that the publisher description for this book is a bit misleading.  It says:

“This is the latest book from the pattern cutting and construction experts at Bunka Fashion College in Japan, school of Yohji Yamamoto. It includes 17 fashionable and achievable designs, with easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions and diagrams that guide the reader through the draping process. With two folded patterns at the back, this book provides inspiring ideas and highly practical techniques for anyone wanting to learn about draping.”

This IS NOT a draping book.  It has patterns that explore different draping techniques, but it isn’t an instructional on how to achieve this look through draping on a dress form or through drafting.

The designs in “Drape Drape” are avant-garde and despite the skinny models, do not think its design just for the slim.  I have seen sewers of different sizes wearing the designs from this book with great success.  The books have developed a cult following among blogging sewers around the world.  Just Google it and you will know what I mean.  The English translation of “Drape Drape” by Hisako Sato is available in stores on May 16.

Tags: Drape Drape, Pattern Magic

New Vogue Spring 2012 Patterns

My picks from the new pattern release:

Donna Karen
Love this dress with all the intricate seaming.

Donna Karen
Love the draping and the color combo of white and navy.  My favorite pattern out of this release.

Donna Karen
I love the cowl top but I am not sure about the skirt with the gathers across the bottom.

Tom and Linda Platt
70s inspired jersey dress with a modern twist with the curve seaming and gathers.

Guy Laroche
It looks amazing on the model, but I am not sure if it would on me.

Tracy Reese
Wrap dress with an interesting shape neckline.

Tracy Reese
Yikes!  This fabric doesn’t pair well with this design.  I love the dress but not the fabric.

DKNY
Love this dress. Its silhouette is similar to Donna Karen V1220 pattern.

Badgley Mischka
Rollin rollin rollin in the river…I want to dance to Proud Mary in this dress channeling Tina Turner.

Pamella Roland
Asymmetrical draping, a modern take on the Grecian dress.

Bellville Sassoon
Love the folds and pleats of this structural collar on the top.

Today Fit’s by Sandra Betzina
I must confess that I have never been interested in Sandra Betzina’s patterns until this blouse pattern came along.  This blouse is flattering for all shapes and sizes and conceals a multitude of sins.

Men’s Jeans
I have always wanted to make a pair of jeans for my husband but was too lazy to draft a pattern from scratch.  Now I have no excuse.  This pattern comes in both boot-legged and tapered fit.

Tags: Spring 2012, Vogue Pattern

DIY Flapper Headband

Happy Chinese New Year!

I know I have been slacking on my posting, but I have been inundated with holiday celebrations.  The latest being Chinese New Year, which came pretty early this year.

I went to quite a few parties during the Christmas holiday and one of them was a 20s theme party inspired by the HBO show “Boardwalk Empire”.  I wasn’t given much notice to create an outfit from scratch so I decided to make just a headband and pair it with a dress that was already in my closet.

What you need:

• Glue gun
• Trim of your choice with the length being the circumference of your head minus 2″ inches (I chose a trim that was one inch wide)
• Feathers (I used an ostrich feather with two peacock feathers)
• Crafting felt
• 3″ inch of elastic matching the width of the trim

Step 1 ~ Cut out the felt the same width and length of your trim.  You might have to join the felt pieces together to get the desire length if the felt piece you bought doesn’t extend to that length, if that is the case, leave 1/4″ seam allowance for sewing the pieces together.  Open up the seam.

NOTE: If you don’t want to sew the felt together but rather glue gun the pieces together that is fine too.  I prefer to sew the pieces because it creates less bulk when you glue it to the back of your trim.

Step 2 ~ Decide on the feather placement on your headband.  Once you have decided, glue the feathers behind the trim.  Hold the feathers in place for a minute to allow the glue to dry.

Step 3 ~ Glue the elastic 1/2″ inch in on both ends of the trim.  Hold it in place and let the glue dry for a minute.  You have just joined the ends to make it a headband.

NOTE: If you get a trim that has stretch.  You can omit the 3″ inch of elastic and just glue/sew the ends together.  Just make sure you stretch it around your head to make sure you have the appropriate length.

Step 4 ~ Take your felt backing and glue wrong side together.    Making sure your ends are flush with each other.  Let it dry before trying it on.

NOTE: If you had a trim like mine which has seam allowance along the edges, fold the seam allowance behind the trim and glue the felt backing over it.

Ta Da!!  You have made your own flapper headband.

Tags: DIY, Flapper Headband